Waking up I was thrilled to see the evening storm blew on by. A portion of the wind stuck around but thankfully it was nothing like it was through the night. Since I arrived at under the cover of darkness, it was the first chance to actually see just where I managed to end up.

Turns out people were not stretching the truth when they said the Faroes were beautiful. The hills had a vivid green and tan color while the ocean projected a deep rich blue, and not a tree to be seen!

The villages I drove through could be seen clustered together with a few stragglers peppering the landscape.

With the size of the villages you’re almost guaranteed a view of the ocean.

Last night I mentioned to Eirikur that I wanted to get out of here early in the morning. I said I could leave the key somewhere safe but he insisted that he will come here and we agreed on a time. That time came and went so I hung around the car which turned out to be its own disaster.

Turns out I left the window open when Eirikur arrived. I rolled it down to see who it was and in the bustle of sorting out the accommodations I forgot to roll it back up. As luck would have it, it was also on the side the rain was blowing in from. If there was any saving grace to this, it was that the due to the direction I was parked, it blew in and nailed the driver’s seat and a portion of the rear bench. The dash was completely dry.

Mechanically everything was good but there was a couple inches of water in the floor boards and the driver’s seat was completely soaked. I was stuck in this car for a couple weeks so this trip wasn’t off to a great start. I scooped out as much water as I could and while I was packing up I let the car idle with the blower on full to keep that air moving. Stagnant air would start to smell and promote mold which I did not want, and I’m sure the folks who I rented the car from wouldn’t either.

Still waiting for Eirikur to show up, a gorgeous dog ran up and started nibbling on my hand. He was a little nippy but otherwise very friendly. I’m not sure who he belonged to but he evidently just wanted someone to play with.

It took me a bit of time to figure out what he was doing but soon realized he wanted to play fetch. Since there are no trees, dogs don’t normally have sticks to retrieve …they have rocks. For at least a good 15 minutes we tossed this little pebble back and forth and it was just adorable.

Eventually I called Eirikur as my patience was up and he said he was waiting for my call to show up …This was never the plan. It was okay though as I made a new friend to pass the time with and wouldn’t have to see Eirikur ever again soon.

Once in the village of Fámjin I wasn’t sure what to expect. This was still one of the first stops I’ve made in the country and in comparison to what I’m used to, there are not a lot of folks to be found! The village of Fámjin is of national importance as it houses the very first Faroese flag.

The flag currently hangs in the church of Fámjin. The church was unfortunately closed at the time I was there so I wasn’t able to see it. From the information I was able to find on the flag, it is hanging behind glass with a narrow gold frame that has writing embossed in it. Although the intriguing part is that it hangs vertically so it makes a T instead of the horizontal orientation that is found when attached to a flag pole.

Once in the village of Fámjin I wasn’t sure what to expect. This was still one of the first stops I’ve made in the country and in comparison to what I’m used to, there are not a lot of folks to be found! The village of Fámjin is of national importance as it houses the very first Faroese flag.

The flag currently hangs in the church of Fámjin. The church was unfortunately closed at the time I was there so I wasn’t able to see it. From the information I was able to find on the flag, it is hanging behind glass with a narrow gold frame that has writing embossed in it. Although the intriguing part is that it hangs vertically so it makes a T instead of the horizontal orientation that is found when attached to a flag pole.

I hobbled around the dock and through the village a little bit. It was an interesting blend of being colorful, although muted the by earth tones. Waves crashed into the dock as the cool wind off of the ocean filled the air. Not a soul to be seen anywhere. The location of the village was simply gorgeous. It sits at the base of the tallest mountain on the island, Gluggarnir, and looks out at an amazing landscape comprised of prominent sea cliffs and an unrelenting ocean.

The opposing side of the village is snuggled up to a small hill full of cascading waterfalls and lush green grass. A sense of relaxation seemed to come over me.

Back in the bumble bee Skoda, it was time to head to the very southern tip of Suðuroy. Now there is a lot of tunnels in the Faroes and they are quite lengthy. This was a unique experience on its own as the number of tunnels we have in Canada at a comparable length can be counted on your hands. Needless to say driving through all these was quite entertaining as the walls give the illusion they were close enough to touch …which if you were to reach out of your window, the signage inside the tunnels really is!

After passing through the Sumba Road Tunnel you are ejected on the southern tip of Suðuroy. Almost immediately after the tunnel you arrive in the village that the tunnel naturally derived its name from, Sumba.

There isn’t a whole lot to do in Sumba from a tourist perspective so I drove around a bit to take in the scenery. If you are feeling up to it, there is a small walk that can be done if you continue on past the village. The road will take you to the very southern tip of the island. From here it’s a few hundred meter walk to the Akraberg Lighthouse. The lighthouse also comes with a large fog horn to warn any marine traffic of the jagged cliffs below.

Along the shore where you emerge from the tunnel are the Beinisvørð cliffs. These are the second tallest sea cliffs in the Faroes at a staggering 470m tall! There unfortunately isn’t a great spot to view them from. The clouds also managed to obscure the top portion so I had to fill in the blank with my imagination. If you were to look at those ‘steps’ on the cliff, it is a sheer drop off straight to the ocean below!

For those feeling a bit adventures, instead of taking the tunnel back, you can follow the road that goes behind the town and up the hill. This is actually a very nice drive as it takes you way up and over the mountain.

Prior to the tunnel being blasted in 1997 this was the only road to Sumba. In the winter time it would prove to be quite challenging reaching the village when there was on going storms. These days a tunnel takes you directly from the village of Lopra to Sumba, no matter the weather.

With the low hanging clouds I didn’t get to see a whole lot again although I imagine it would have looked very pretty. If the weather was clear I could picture the view from gaining a decent amount of elevation would have been breathtaking, even a hike up the backside of Beinisvørð, albeit a difficult one, would probably be possible.

On my way down from the pass I came across one of these stone rings. I’ve asked around and have received conflicting information, or simply it has multiple uses. I’ve been told they are used as sheep shelters for when the weather turns for the worse, the sheep have somewhere to take cover. This one would be a bit basic as there is obviously no roof to it.

The other response I’ve received has been that these are places to help round sheep up with its time to sheer them …and pick a few tasty ones to for slaughter.

Since the 1970’s the Faroes have spent a massive sum of money connecting the various network of villages. Even within the various islands such as the one we are presently on, Suðuroy has four tunnels going through 7.5 kilometers of solid rock.

Less than a hundred people live in the most northern town of Sandvík. Yet for them to reach the ferry they have had almost three kilometers of tunnels carved directly out of the mountains. It’s 2018 at the time of writing and we can’t even get clean drinking to all our neighborhoods in Canada.

In Canada we typically clean our roads about once a year, mind you we have a lot of roads though. This truck I ended up being was slowly crawling along in the tunnel and appeared to be pressure washing the groove between the road and the curb. The road looked pretty clean so maybe he was looking for something to do?

Back by the docks, I follow a small road that leads up the hill away from Tvøroyrar. At the end of the road a single track foot trail leads up to the ridge. From here there are amazing views to be had but it is also the access to get down to Hvannhagi. It is a popular nature area on the island.

This was going to be my first real test of the knee on this trip so I only plan to make it to the ridge. Up and down hill is still aggravating so I don’t want to drop down from the ridge and then have to make my way the entire distance back up.

With my leg bandaged up I basically got into the groove of reapplying the entire concoction from day one, three to four times a day. This ended up being rather awkward at times as there really wasn’t a way to do this without pulling my pants down. In a place where there really are no bathrooms, shops, or trees, I basically just hoped no one drove by and looked at me.

Needless to say I lather and brace up and decide to do the short hike and see what happens. I did bring hiking poles so they were pretty valuable keeping the weight off.

After a slow and steady hike up to the top you are greeted with a breath taking view. Literally! The wind was absolutely fierce in the saddle and looking into it felt as though you stuck your head out of a moving vehicle.

I took my backpack off in order to get my camera out and didn’t quite feel confident it would stay put. I rolled a reasonably sized boulder over the straps to hold it down just in case! There is a good size cliff directly below so being blown off or having something roll down would have bad news written all over it.

You are able to make your way down to the lake below via a trail further to the east. This was my first attempt at uphill walking on the leg so I was content with just getting to the saddle and as such, aimed further west to take in this view. The islands of Lítla Dímun and Stóra Dímun can be seen looming out of the water in the distance.

The way back down …Full on wind blasting to the face! Thankfully gravity was there to help push my way through the wind and down the hillside.

Driving along I happened to come across this quaint two story shed. I couldn’t help but take a picture of it!

Back at the port, it was time to head board the might Smyril Tvøroyri and depart to do a bit more island hoping. I took the 18:30 departure and was headed back to Tórshavn.

The return voyage has a sailing time of just over two hours. I figured that the trip south went pretty well and I didn’t really experience any sea sickness so I was a little more brave this time around. I made my way over to the cafeteria and indulged on dinner comprised of a large tasty chicken! The portions were actually quite large that I barely finished it.

Arriving on the ‘mainland’ for about 20:30, I had roughly 35 minutes before needing to be at the next ferry which departed at 21:20. While the Gamlarætt ferry port I was headed to was on the west side of the island, it is only about a 15 minute drive.

With a few minutes to spare I took a quick jaunt over to the Magnus Cathedral in the village of Kirkjubøur. It is the oldest building the Faroes dating back to the year 1330! I should have some more time to spend exploring this wonder a bit later into the trip, mustn’t be late for the ferry!

This ferry was the M/F Teistin. A bit smaller than the Tvøroyri holding about 30 vehicles and 288 passengers. As it pulled up to the dock, the front nose started to lifts upwards. I was not expecting this at all so it took a few seconds to register just what was happening! Once the nose as lifted completely upwards you’re able to drive right on in. The tail end also opens up so it is effectively …a drive through ferry.

The sailing time is a fair bit shorter here, within about 30 minutes of departure you are making landfall on the island of Sandoy.

For some inexplicable reason this moment reminded me of Jurassic Park. Maybe it was the slight drizzle in the encroaching darkness, the color and appearance of the boat, with one large light blanketing the area; hard to say.

Through the course of the day I have been trying to reach the campground on Sandoy without much success. I wanted to let them know I would be arriving late but it would keep ringing and ringing. I googled a few other numbers and managed to reach someone! Turns out the information they had online is outdated by a few years and they are not actually open until the end of October, they’ve close last week for the season!

I’ve provided the phone number for a lovely lady who runs the other campground on the island. It happens to be on the opposite end of where the ferry drops you off though. I let her know that I would be arriving around 22:30 and she says that it is fine as she won’t be there, but her husband will.

My next question is what the address is since I’d like to have a better evening than last night. She says to just look for the blue house!

The blue house?!

It’s the only blue house in the village! You can’t miss it, she says.

Back on my little cruise ship, being late at night on a weekday it was rather empty with only about four passengers on the boat. I find it quite enjoyable walking around the boat and exploring the various areas. With how the decks are laid out, if you brave the elements outside you can watch the crew working in the bridge. The entire bridge was lit with dim red lights to allow them to see while helping preserve their night vision.

A welcome surprise was that one of the folks along for the ride ended up being quite friendly. He was just about the first person that I wasn’t purchasing something from and freely communicated. Any local I’ve seen up to this point just looks away when you glance their way. No wave, no nod, nothing. They’ll stare and then look away when you wave from a distance.

To be fair, if you live on a quiet island you probably like your peace without a bunch of tourists barging through.

As you probably guessed, I could not find a blue house. The headlights are projectors which have a nice cutoff that prevents them from shining too high. Most houses have a tall foundation before the color of the house actually starts. As a result I slowly creep back and forth with my high beams on trying to shine it on everyone’s house.

Now it’s not a very big village. It has one road that goes through it and a couple side driveways which basically dead end and you have to backup out of without falling into a canal in the dark.

Eventually I pull up to one of the houses which seem somewhat blue, but not a very convincing shade at all. They had their lights on and I could see them looking out the window. I figured I probably disrupted the village enough at this point and walk up to the door. A nice lady comes out who doesn’t speak any English, but she is able to get her husband to the door who speaks it reasonably well.

I apologize for interrupting them so late and ask if they know of a ‘blue house’. Thankfully he knows of the place and says it’s easy to spot. Basically just drive down this road and don’t go quite to the ocean and turn right when you pass a black house …

I mention the color thing isn’t really working for me. A lot of the dark colors look rather black at night and he gives me slightly better directions.

Turns out you have to go down a small gravel side thing that looks like someone’s driveway before you see a very bright and brilliant blue house.

Once I park my bumble bee, I try all the doors and sure enough it’s all locked! I give the lady a call and she says her husband already left, she will be there in about 15 minutes though so I end up waiting until she returns.

The village only has 8 people that actually live there anymore and the rest of the homes are empty. I basically had the entire accommodations to myself again as they lived elsewhere in the village.

To throw more wrenches into this trip I had a bit of a scare as my tablet crashed and went into a permanent reboot mode. Instead of succumbing to the sleep I was ever so craving, I was stuck trying to restore and get the tablet up and running well past midnight.

Thankfully it all came together and worked okay in the morning!

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